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GIGLIO >> Presentation
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 In
comparison with Elba, this island could be considered tiny,
but is instead the second largest island in the Tuscan archipelago
and ideal for those who want to immerse completely into nature
and peace that nowadays is hard to find at beach-resorts on
Elba that are literally assaulted by tourists during high-season.
Giglio's profile is mostly hilly and the central ridge of the
island slopes softly towards the sea. With exception for the
promontory del Franco, characterized by deep limestones, the
island consists entirely of granite rocks and from its highest
peak, Poggio della Pagana situated almost 500 meters above sea-level,
you can enjoy an extraordinary view over the whole archipelago.
Although the nature is mostly hilly there are still cultivated
areas, especially in the vicinity of the area Campese, and on
the del Santo, del Franco and della Fontuccia plains. Analogous
to what happened on Elba, fires, sheep-farming and agricultural
activities have caused the almost complete disappearance of
high-tree woods that once covered the island but that today
instead is clad with a luxuriant mantle of Mediterranean bush.
Agriculture and fishing have ceased to be the substantial activities
in the islands' economy as they have left space for tourism
that now is the main spring for the inhabitants.
Traces from the presence of man on the island since pre-historical
times have been found and it has been able to confirm that the
Etruscans landed here and probably used it as a military outpost.
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The islands period of glory is connected to the presence of
the Roman aristocrat family Domizi Enobarbi that made it a fundamental
marine junction for trade between the different provinces within
the empire. Even today there are traces of this prosperous period
at the Roman Villa that was the Enobarbi residence and in the
many wrecks resting on the bottom close to Isola del Giglio's
coasts. Later, the island was passed on to numerous lords and
masters and kept on being the prey for pirates' raids, sometimes
as terrible as those of Barbarossa who managed to literally
raze it to the ground. On the 18:th of November in 1799, the
raids on behalf of the pirates' and the Saracenes' were put
to an end as the population beat the "Turchs" in a
heroic battle that finally freed them and made them masters
of their own land again. With that, a long period of peace started
that encouraged economic activities, a demographic increase
and also led to an intensification in mining. The granite caves,
that had been explored already by the Romans, were re-opened
and with that the exportation of the islands' most valuable
materials that still today decorate some of ancient Rome's high-class
mansions and numerous Italian basilicas. Today, without a doubt,
what attracts tourists are the outstanding sea-beds. The original
habitat has been safeguarded by an intelligent environmental
protection program and continues to represent a true submerged
treasure that every year attracts thousands of scuba-divers.
Impressive granitic beds raise from the sandy bottoms and surround
the coasts. Rock-faces are covered with sea-fans around which
white breams, groupers, morays, corvines and sea-eels swim.
The rocks that spring out from the sea-beds' sand form shoals
teeming with life and you often see fish like dentex and flocks
of tuna and barracuda. Passionates of under-water photographing
will not have any problems finding exiting subjects for their
shots. Definite protagonists of the islands' submarine set are
the yellow, candelabrum-shaped sponges. For
those who do not intend to submerge armed with tubes and video-cameras
are instead offered coastlines variegated with reefs and dotted
with coves and small sandy beaches protected from the wind.
Arenella beach is picturesque and gives a romantic atmosphere,
just as the small beaches Campese, Cala delle Cannelle and Cala
delle Caldane. The tiny Cala del Saraceno, near Giglio harbor,
is worth visiting for at least a couple of hours. Those who
love walking in the nature or bird watching will find a wide
range of possibilities to enjoy themselves on condition that
they pack the right equipment in their suitcases and do not
put themselves through trekking during the hottest hours, when
the sun is pitiless on the rock-paths. Getting from Giglio Porto
to Castello is an easy and short walk that takes about one and
a half hour. You take on a to a mule-track close to the fork
for Arenella along the road that connects the two localities.
The track is immerged in the Mediterranean bush and runs along
an Ilex grove that stretches from Pettaio to Vado di San Giorgio.
Not much further on, a granite threshing floor allows you to
enjoy a lovely view over Cala dell'Arenella, Caletta and Torre
del Lazzaretto. Continuing along the path you get to the small
square infront of the city-walls at Giglio Castello. From this
locality, a road of intermediate difficulty starts that in about
three hours takes you to Punta del Capel Rosso. You follow the
panoramic road that goes from Castello, at Vado del Catinello
you take on to a path and as you have surpassed Vado di Pietrabona,
it runs along Poggio del Serrone and leaves you walking between
vineyards and cultivated pines. The path continues to climb
for about half hour and takes us to a panoramic point from where
you can sight the sea and the outline of the island Giannutri.
The lighthouse at Capel Rosso is situated just behind and from
here the path starts to descend towards the southern cape of
the island, marking a track immerged between rock-rose and broom
bushes. The very same Punta del Capel Rosso can also be reached
by taking on to a second path that also starts from the vicinity
of Castello but takes on a much more demanding course that takes
about six hours. It starts south of Castello, in the locality
Le Porte, and as you surpass a small quarry, the path starts
to descend and you surpass Cala delle Cannelle, Punta di Campo
Marino and Cala della Caldane. After about a one hours walk
you wander around the Castellucci crests and get to a saddle
situated along the islands' hilly ridge. It is a true sanctuary
for nature lovers and you can easily sight wild rabbits and
buzzards. A fork on the right leads to Poggio Terneti from where
the path descends into the bush until it reaches the granitic
block called Poggio del Sasso Ritto. From here you get a lovely
view over Cala delle Caldane, Cala delle Cannelle and Punta
del Lazzaretto. After having enjoyed the panorama you take the
fork for Mortoleto from where the path continues, running along
some vineyards and nowadays abandoned terraces until it becomes
more narrow and reaches the lighthouse at Punta di Capel Rosso.
On the right hand of the lighthouse you come on to a flight
of steps that have been carved in the granite and that lead
to the sea, above Cala Saracinesca and behind Giannutri and
Argentario.
Photos from APT Grosseto and Mediaweb srl.
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