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| ELBA
>> Portoferraio |
 The
island's capital is located on a spur of a rock and is of Etruscan
and Greek origin. The legend tells that Argonauts came to Portoferraio,
led by Jason, in their search for golden fleece, while archaeological
findings show an as early presence as both of Etruscans and
Romans on the island. The ancient names Fabricia e Feraia, given
by these populations, prove that it was the mines' extraordinary
richness of ferrous minerals that attracted them, for their
production of arms. Portoferraio's historic heart is preserved
in the narrow streets behind the harbor, between Piazza Cavour
and Piazza della Repubblica, in the alleys and the steps leading
the way to the Medicean fortifications. |
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The Medicean town still reserves memories from when it was renamed
Cosmopoli in the honour of Cosimo de' Medici the 1:st, who in
1548 re-constructed and fortificated the village after it had
been razed to the ground by the Saracenes. It was then that
Fort Falcone and Fort della Stella , the "della Linguella"
Tower and the solid city-walls which made the town almost impregnable,
were built on designs by the architects Camerini and Belluzzi.
The following historic event of importance in Portoferraio is
connected to the presence of Emperor Napoleon who built his
residence and the headquarters for the Empires organization
just outside the village. The impressive iron complex at Portoferraio
was demolished as a consequence to the bombings during WW II
and today the town is the seat for most offices and public services
as well as the center for main communications. Still, the worst
mistake you can make, is to consider Portoferraio a landing
to leave as soon as possible and move on to discover the island.
Elba's capital actually guards treasures of rare beauty and
before leaving for the beaches you should at least visit it
completely. An itinerary dedicated to the Medicean Portoferraio
will take you to Fort Falcone and Fort Stella, the "della
Linguinella" tower and the church Santissimo Sacramento,
while in order to see Napoleonic beauties you should start by
visiting the Palazzina dei Mulini, a splendid building that
symbolized the Emperor's public life. Continue by visiting the
Vigilanti theatre which was a gift from the Emperor to his sister
Pauline, followed by the Misericordia church and then finish
up with Villa San Martino, the Emperor's private residence.
If you want to combine marine relax with the well-being of thermal
baths you should get on the road for Cavo and stop at Terme
di San Giovanni, a true panacea for curing rheumatic pains and
for the skin, built on salt-pans already known by the ancients
for curing the lower limbs of race horses,. Today, the beneficient
properties in the mud, containing seaweed rich with iodine and
sulphur, are still used, especially in the making of cosmetics
that are sold to the public. Leaving Terme di San Giovanni,
the road takes you to the ruins of Villa delle Grotte that raises
on a panoramic headland and from where you can enjoy the view
of Portoferraio's entire harbour. There is no doubt the botanic
garden next to the camping Rosselba, in the out-skirts of the
capital, is worth a visit. The garden guards several species
of tropical plants and secular trees risking extinction. After
having been neglected for a long time, the park was rediscovered
and restored by a young botanist in 1985 commissioned by a rich
Bavarian. Along the road for San Martino instead, you will find
the so-called Valle delle Ceramiche (Valley of Ceramics), a
10.000 square meters green oasis that gathers about twenty monumental
works of art in ceramics. It is situated inside a private estate
on the will of the Elban painter Italo Bolano and houses the
International Art Center where artists and public gather every
summer to meet, discuss and work. There is also an educational
center with workrooms for painting, pottery and tillage.
Photos from APT Tuscan Archipelago and Mediaweb srl.
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